Design, Design Critic

The Design Divo Does Katsuya Hollywood

As my eyes adjust from the blinding flash of paparazzi crouched outside, I am greeted by a darling hostess dressed in a drab, prison like uniform at the newest Katsuya Restaurant in Hollywood.  Immediately, the floating white sushi knife cocktail stands in the Dragon Lounge visually arrest my attention. Between the prison uniforms and knives, I think to myself, “Did I mistake this for the S&M bar down the street?”   My fears are calmed as we are ushered to our table amidst ornate Venetian mirrors, white leather couches, candlelight and a giant red kiss-me-already geisha lip photograph. 

Our server suggests the Burning Mandarin cocktail winning them “Best Cocktail in LA” award by LA Magazine, made of fresh citrus, vodka and Serrano chilies to give you that geisha pucker.  She gained my respect, so we fall into her arms to lead us into the legendary Master Chef Katsuya Uechi taste bud wonderland.  Each of the ten courses are served on different shaped platters of wood, ceramic and stone beautifully accented with bright edible flowers, almost too lovely to eat. 

Taking a breather to digest, I wander around the other ‘bento box’ divided rooms.  While I was lucky to eat in the deliciously glowing room to the left of the bar, other diners were not so fortunate.  Veer to the right of the bar and step into the generic, dungeon sushi bar and main dining room.  Did celebrity designer Philippe Starck have a creative block? Was he on strike the day he designed that room? My god, what a disappointing contrast!  Despite the Godzilla-size geisha body part photos (cheaply printed btw), nothing sets this apart from a sushi bar in little Japan town.

I rush to the bathroom to hide my obvious dismay. Just as I am regaining my composure, ghost-like figures appear in the mirror, scaring the design critic right out of me!   Call it karma or Starck mischievously getting the final say on his design.  

Katsuya Hollywood
6300 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood, CA
323.871.8777
www.sbe.com/katsuya

Delights: Sushi presentation and quality, a place to see and be seen, divine cocktails

Doozies:  Pricy $$$, Dull sushi bar/main room, Crowded, Scary Bathroom mirrors