Kress
The Design Divo Cuts Deep then Goes Soft for the Kress
You’d think the Fredericks of Hollywood’s garish lavender and purple ‘makeover’ to this 1935 masterpiece of American Moderne architecture was enough design atrocity for one building to take. Like a former beauty queen with a botched face-lift, the punishment continues with the new restaurant, lounge, and nightclub concept of the Kress (named after the original owner who operated a clothing manufacturing company here).On the street level of this monstrous 38,000 square foot four story space is their Asian fusion restaurant doused with gold pleather booths, plastic orchids, pseudo sexy prints of opium-den girls and to complete the look of cheap Chinese: a glowing red Lucite chandelier reminiscent of the 80’s neon light craze we’d rather forget. The only elements with genuine soul are two imposing Chinese dragon statues peering down on the room that were discovered hidden in the basement during renovation. Although, I must say, one person might feel simpatico with the interior decorating. I expected Bruce Lee to walk in any minute and reenact the scene before the tournament in his famous “Enter the Dragon” movie.
When my eyes and ears (house music is blared as if you were in the basement club) couldn’t take the assaults anymore, I looked up to revel in the original gilded leaf molding on the ceiling and pillars. I took comfort in the fact that the building’s wonderful bones transcended the harsh colors of paint.
The food is also a desperate act to be something they are not - sophisticated, innovative and edgy. In health conscious LA, stripping romaine lettuce of all its goodness by serving it tempura style with a side of ranch-like dressing is like selling ‘organic’ meth. Stick with their basics like the Sizzling Beef Ramen soup served in an authentic stone bowl.
The design themes seemed to evolve as the elevator climbed. The disco funk nightclub was an improvement to the restaurant and the rooftop was literally Kress’ crown of glory. The elevator opens to an exclusive VIP lounge i.e. only available to those who are dropping a minimum of $400 for bottle service. Even the tacky orange corsets of the cocktail waitresses don’t diminish from the jaw-dropping panoramic views of Hollywood’s seedy and sizzling skyline.
Kress’s Vegas-type glam décor reminds us that everything that glitters is not always golden. Yet, I am eternally grateful to them for preserving one more architectural gem of historical Los Angeles. We must hold on and support past artistic endeavors to inspire evolved creativity for the future.
Kress
6608 Hollywood Boulevard, Hollywood, CA
(323) 785-5000
www.thekress.net
Delights: Hipster Hollywood scene, the gracious Wait staff, Heated Rooftop
Doozies: $20 Valet, Economic Oblivion (bottle service fees)

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